Viewing entries in
michelin guide

Earth Day. Farm Journal Philo, Spring '26

Comment

Earth Day. Farm Journal Philo, Spring '26

I was holding my iphone aloft, Merlin Bird ID recording songs and calls in the foggy pre-dawn air, bird names unspooling as the app identified them : Violet-green Swallow, Red-shouldered Hawk, Black Phoebe, Allen’s Hummingbird, Hutton’s Vireo, Cassin’s Vireo, Purple Finch, Spotted Towhee, Townsend’s Warbler, Rufous Hummingbird, Wrentit, Western Warbling Vireo, Steller’s Jay, Hermit Thrush, Cedar Waxing. American Robin.

Now Birdsong is beautiful whether or not you have a clue to the identity of bird you are hearing ; I remember thinking it seemed an impressively long list, a fine start to spring. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology app even provides you with a photograph of each bird you are hearing and on this morning the menagerie around me proved to be beautiful, small, distinct, emerald colored. I could only identify three little fellows dive bombing the hedges, careening across the sky. So much life above and, come to think of it, below me. How dumb I was to almost all of it.

And that’s when it happened. I was standing at the edge of a meadow where our farm meets the forest. Turned off the app, put the phone down, closed my eyes. Just listening, sightless, to all the life lifting off and landing. And I just ‘stepped off’ as gentle as you please, one instant listening to all the beautiful fluttering life, the next just …being… in it.

Small word ‘in.’ Ranges from ‘in the market looking for tomatoes,’ to ’in the throes of death.’ We are always, ‘in’ life, doing something or looking for something to do. But in that fragment of time before I opened my eyes I went from being a participant in life - woman who needed a coffee, Woman who needed to start harvesting flowers for the restaurant before the sun came up, old Woman with aching back, remanent of an Ada Limon poem stuck in her head, to something else. Something I could not name, but felt, deeply. It was as if the line between my body and the world wavered and then, for an instant, dissolved. Reality slipped a sprocket, and in that space a pure kind of consciousness and a fantastical sense of … belonging. When I opened my eyes the sensation disappeared, but the intricate beauty of everything around me remained. I must tell you the way it all flowed together was astounding. Nature is astounding.

Down in Healdsburg the next day I dropped into Levin & Co and bought Michael Pollan’s new book ‘A World Appears.’ Pollen is a wonderful writer. For his entire career he has been grasciously circling notions of what makes us tick, how we think about and moderate the world to suit us as humans, what may just lay beyond those fragile connections. I’ve yet to get to the part which might help explain where I landed that morning with the birds, more to the point, what drives the need we all have to feel true belonging. Irreligious all my life, I’m crap at meditation - my moment with the birds was not casting my eyes to Heaven in search of a spiritual connection nor going deep within, peace through the abdication of self.

Engagement is not the same thing as belonging. In this technologically driven moment it may seem to be the most valuable thing about us as humans - but it’s not. It’s our ability to connect, to truly belong to the living world, to this Earth, emphatically, warily, with curiousity and, eventually, with love.

Happy Earth Day. We hope you have the desire and freedom to get out there into it, let enfold you. Don’t ‘pay attention‘ or ruminate on anything other than the breath in your lungs, the sweet smell of flowering branch, color that doesn’t need adjusting. Spring has come on fast and furious. This one is a pip.

Images above, and Below, CC Jil Hales, were all shot in the last week up here on the ridge: flowering Cherry and Apple trees, Daffodils, Wild scapes, Hellebores, Lilic, Roses, Ceanothus, Ixia, Hyacinth, Iris, Bowl toothed Iris, Peonies, Quince, FavaBean, yarrow, redwood sorrel, poppies, euphorbia, snowballs, tulips, crocus, blue-eyed grass, scabosia - and that’s just a shortlist I can identify. Would that Dan was here right now.

Good news: he’s coming!

 

For those of you who don’t know Daniel Carlson, He’s Lukka’s Partner in life and travel, also Barndiva Farm whisperer, helping design our garden programs for over a decade. We are incredibly proud of the name he is making for himself in the UK - thrilled he will now be able to divide his time with us in Northern California going forward. Daniel has had two wonderful mentions this spring in illustrious gardening magazines: Gardens Illustrated and House & Garden, UK. Instrumental assisting Jonny Bruce on the concept, design and labor helping launch Jonny’s The Field Nursery in the Cotswolds, Dan’s quote in the March issue of GI says it all: “We need to act in partnership with plants and ecology, and not assert dominance over our plots.”

In the UK House and Garden we hope you can read about Jonny’s remarkable career at Great Dixter where the Dan/Jonny connection ignited. Jonny is also the guardian of Derek Jarman’s infinitely interesting Prospect Cottage in Kent. It was his experience at the pioneering nursery De Hessenhof which has shaped The Field Nursery. He is not alone in hoping it will be emblematic of where ‘commercial’ garden centers may be heading. More and more gardeners are leaning in to designing with plants that are climate and water sensitive, habitat friendly. The Field Nursery will propagate the plants it grows and sells- think slow-grown potted plants and bare root perennials - a return to traditional nursery practices before the big trucks of plastic start arrived from miles and often countries away. In addition to reducing the need for plastic, Jonny’s approach has the advantage of growing plants with stronger root systems, reducing the need for excessive fertilizers. Adaptive landscapes that encourage insect life, that grow fro the understanding that as precious as your sweet plot may be to you, what lies just over the fence or in the next field or meadow is part of the worlds - landscape as well.

Throughout history Nature has provided us with food, and solace. She has provided energy, and shelter. Being Human, even before we ‘learned’ to be civilized, depended upon cooperation, a working together that was not built on profit margins so much as shared goals, focused one thing: survival. But What does it mean to survive right now? What can it mean - and for anyone with children this is the essential question- to thrive? Conversations Worth Having returns in August. Stay tuned!

 

It’s not too late!

Come join us for the annual Pink Party and meet the most exciting rosé wine producers in Sonoma & Mendocino counties! 

Use code POSSE at checkout for

discount on 6+ tickets.

Dress code: Think Pink!

Comment

 Studio Barndiva  2025

Comment

Studio Barndiva 2025

This is Bea, the ‘angel’ in our holiday ‘angels and bears’ cocktail made from crabapples we harvested with Misha, our extraordinary farm manager and her daughter, Ara. Bea and Ara, ethereal creatures, are not that much smaller than our extremely old crabapple trees, the ones by the road which have somehow managed to escape the woozy ire of the ‘bears.’ My guess is our ursine neighbors are put off by the smell of tannin in the apple skins, which also happens to be why they are such a great apple to macerate, in this case, in Armagnac and aromatics.

I love end of year best lists, the books the movies, the art shows, but when it comes to dishes - especially those we served - it’s not so easy to choose. Each season has its standouts. This is our second year serving dinner in Studio Barndiva where we have room for dining couches and cocktail high tops, better sound, a big wall on which to play Isabel’s silent film compilations. The feedback from returning guests and new customers has been, thankfully, incredible. When the mood of a space is just right, the drinks and dishes arrive as a blessing, which is how all food should be received.

Long before we learned to make an art out of cooking & dining, we gathered in tribes and then communities to celebrate harvest and the seasons, and I am of the belief that the time we spend dining at brick and mortar restaurants - the experience itself whether perfect or flawed - is at the heart of the definition of what it means to share the experience of being human. Of course we can and should participate in fostering the health of our community in many ways: going to the theatre, galleries, music venues, but something quite unique happens when you lift a glass in a comfortable room or garden surrounded by other fellow humans. You replenish, physically and emotionally. If the experience is authentic, if there is care in the sourcing, labor that honors the food chain, you also pay it forward, you contribute. And you don’t have to know a soul sitting in the room around you to share a social covenant which is irreducible.

I had a friend who grew up in Oklahoma, and I have never forgotten his description of how his family knew a tornado was coming. It wasn’t the growing darkness on the horizon, which seemed to move closer by the minute, certainly not once the furniture started flying. “It was something in the air, not quite a scent, but you could definitely smell it: a chilly premonition it was time to prepare.”

It would be disingenuous to say that for those of us practicing hospitality in wine country right now - Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino- at the end of a year as precarious as this one, that while the furniture is not flying, premonitions abound. With the wine industry in transition, diners (we are told) drinking less wine and spirits, the general tightening of the family budget and - not least for a town like Healdsburg - a possible downward shift in tourism - we may be in for an interesting new year. People will always thankfully celebrate the momentous moments of their lives - a good thing as Barndiva moves into our 21st year as a bespoke wedding and special event venue - but it’s as a restaurant we find our deepest connection to the Healdsburg we’ve been a part of for two decades, and its surrounding food and wine sheds all the way up to our farm in the Anderson Valley.

Our last blog post was a photo album of Sparkle Party, which we hosted with Stay Healdsburg to launch the Holiday season in Healdsburg on November 15. Sparkle drew close to 250 people from across the town’s spectrum of locals and visitors, farmers and artists. What was extraordinary about that evening? I’d like to think the Misha Vega’s green mum floral wall, the vinyl playlist, the bites which showcased food grown a few miles away, the many glasses we raised of singular sparkling wines also grown and made only miles from where we gathered. The images tell the story that there was something else at play on the night as well. Just being in the same space together, the conversations we didn’t realize we needed to have, the unbridled laughter. The energy at Sparkle wrapped its arms around a truth we will be holding close this coming year: we are strongest and happiest when we come together. It’s not a euphemism. It is the truth.

We send this blog out with heartfelt thanks to all who patronized Studio Barndiva this past year, especially Barndiva’s local friends and neighbors who returned again and again, as well many visitors to Healdsburg who came looking to see what we’ve got up to in the intervening years. Never a dull moment, that’s for sure. Its all still so beautiful and delicious, for which we are grateful.

We hope to see you soon.

dishes we enjoyed serving the most in 2025

  1. Now on the winter menu, the layered flavors of mixed greens and chicories dressed in a fragrant orange flower dressing, Barndiva farm apples, grana padano crisps, pecans, pomegranate, delicata squash chips.

  2. The Basil Gimlet, made with Reyes Farm basil, finished with drops of nasturtium oil, resplendent with the scents of summer.

  3. Erik’s sweet corn soup made a brief appearance at the height of corn season, poured table side, the better to see the Jimmy Nardello pepper and sherry vinegar jam with a hint of Presto VOO. Finished with a flash grilled pouf of corn silk.

  4. Whipped mozzarella with Barndiva fig vinaigrette beneath Barndiva farm figs, peak tomatoes, peeled and marinated toy box tomatoes sheltering beneath fresh basil. A moment in time - figs at their ripest, tomatoes at their juiciest.

  5. The dish people come back for again and again - our Tikka Masala. Yes, our menu in the Studio is eclectic - these are dishes we most want to eat which we are honored to share with you.

  6. Three dynamic FOH Diva’s in action : Liz, Lisette, Lynn.

  7. Trout tartare in a pool of green tomato aguachile, with avocado, radish, garden florals. The perfect, and sexiest start to a meal here. (There, I've said it)

  8. Erik’s Fava bean and fresh mint pea soup with Boonville’s piment d’ville pepper flakes as photographed by Liza Gershman for her upcoming Healdsburg Farmers Market cookbook - for publication early 2026. It will no doubt be for sale at the Farmers Market in the spanking new Foley Family Community Pavilion on North Street.

  9. Simon’s Barndiva Farm Apple galette was the hit dessert this year. Initially made with our heirloom Gravensteins, it went through the apple harvest with different varietals, served with his Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Now offered with Persimmons, in the run up to Christmas it will return with apples we harvested just last week.

  10. Lift, Flirt & Slide lower alcohol apéritifs will make a return in 2025, as will Isabel Hales to lead our cocktail program with Danny Martin. We can’t wait!

  11. The Studio Barndiva Ice Cream Social changed weekly showcasing Simon’s insane IC and sorbet flavors. Mango, Strawberry and Orange pictured.

  12. We were honored to once again receive recognition for Studio Barndiva from Michelin in 2025 - a show of their continued support as we have navigated the food, wine, and cocktail world, ‘eating and drinking the view.’ Michelin’s understanding that passion and care in the kitchen and on the floor extends to sourcing and sustainability - the foundation of truly ‘fine’ dining - is a lodestar.

Photos Chad Surmick; Jil Hales

Barndiva Farm’s floral program is overseen by Misha Vega, @philo.flora, weekly arrangements by Jil Hales. It is guided, from the Costwolds, by Daniel Carlson, @Daniel.james.co.

Comment